Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Shame - Ամօթ


I was born and raised in a suburb of Washington DC, capital of the United States of America. Being surrounded consciously and subconsciously by the overflow of politics, I was aware of their importance in 5th grade. When a teacher was berating me for being the only one in my class to be a ‘conservative’, I figured out that politics is comparable to a popularity contest (until being isolated became a ‘hipster’ thing.) Since then, my opinions haven’t changed all that much; rather they developed into mature amalgamations of my morals, family influences, and independent experiences. I’ve learned from these experiences that if you want something, you have to be responsible to obtain it. Nobody will do it for you, and it is not the government’s responsibility. Before I begin a rant, I should get to the point…

Fast forward to 2013, Yerevan, Armenia. The presidential elections have been stewing in all of our minds for the last few months. Normally I wouldn’t give a rat’s ass about elections, especially in a country in which I am not a citizen. However this time personal connections compelled me to be active in supporting the most genuine, honest, and well-qualified man to run for president in tiny Armenia. Raffi Hovannisian, US-born lawyer and politician to genocide survivors, has been a family friend for years, and was the MC at my parents’ wedding. I quickly educated myself on his presidential platforms and professional experience in Armenia. Raffi is western-educated but has culturally adapted to understand the delicate mentality that exists in Armenia today. This mentality stems from the Soviet-era, where everyone was ‘taken care of’ and nobody had to make an effort to make ends meet. I cannot understand this mentality for a few reasons - including my age and lack of exposure to this kind of lifestyle. (It is also important to note that I am unsympathetic to almost everything…)

Raffi K. Hovannisian

Rewind – I got my first job at 14, where I was a soccer referee. I was even given a cell phone for Christmas, so I could be ferried around by my parents from game to game. I worked for three years as a lifeguard and pool manager, followed by more academic internships – like teaching and researching. I was taught that if I wanted to buy the next gameboy (gameboy SP, in pink!), I would have to earn the money myself. This motivation has to come from within, but I am thankful for my parents for raising me to think this way. Back to Armenia – Yes, it is a young country. Yes, there are many people without jobs. Yes, many of them aren’t used to having to work to get what they want. But NO, I don’t see that as an excuse for being lazy. Those who support the current president, Mr. Serzh Sargsyan, are either rich rabiz scum because of the oligarchs they are a part of, or are content living under the poverty level because they are afraid of change. There is a middle class that is starting to raise its voice.  

Serzh Sargsyan in his younger years.

My participation in the Heritage Party’s campaign has been the best part of my living in Armenia so far. I personally trailed Baron Hovannisian on the first day of the campaign in Yerevan, and accompanied him and volunteers four other times on trips to other regions in Armenia. Every time, I was able to gain a deeper understanding of Armenian politics through the eyes of the people. The old women making cheese in Bangladesh (district), the toothless men working at the butchers in Hrazdan, and the genuine families campaigning with Raffi together have shown me that there are people ready to move mountains. I have heard him speak, his baritone voice drawing crowds in wherever he is. I have seen him shake hands with hundreds of people per day, greeting each with the same smile and blessing as the last. I am confident that his leadership would be an amazing thing for a country that is suffering with emigration problems and lack of jobs. I don’t think anyone in the immediate campaign force ever sleeps, because they are constantly working around the clock to make our dreams for Armenia a reality.  

The campaigning days were chock full with countless violations, including bribery, intimidation and passport fraud. These don’t compare to the violations that took place on Election Day. The most notable violations include ballot stuffing, paying off polling proxies, and even physical harassment of election monitors. For a full list, please check out http://raffi4president.am/en/violations
 
The scariest thing is that the supposed observation committee didn’t recognize the election process as fraudulent or impeded. They said it was ‘lackluster’ and ‘without competition’. These claims are of course not true, as noted by the physical and numeric evidence. Raffi won Gyumri, Vanadzor, and most of Yerevan. The reported exit polls are the exact same as the ‘official results’, which is impossible.  I don’t want to get too much into the ridiculousness of the tallying and misrepresentation of numbers, but rather focus on the big picture.

Crowd shot at press conference

I can’t say I’m surprised at how much of a circus these elections are, but it is quite synonymous with the way Armenian things have run in the past. For example, as a 14 year old, I wanted to be on AYF junior executive committee – the voting back then was full of fake ballots. The kids would rip their papers in half and submit two votes, and then vote for their friends who weren’t even there. The community couldn’t accept a generous donation to build a new church because they were too busy bickering on where it would be built. The Armenian Genocide Museum of America project has been scrapped because of arguing on what to call it. SO TRIVIAL. 

The big picture, from my honey colored Armenian-American eyes, is thus: Armenia is its own worst enemy. I’m not a peace-loving hippie monger but I see the same problem in Armenian politics (in Hayastan and the Diaspora) that has been handicapping our ability to get anything done. We fight with each other, and we can’t settle even this so we can take care of more important issues – like Genocide recognition, Artsakh, oligarchies, and foreign relations. If slimeball Serzh truly cares about the “future and security of Armenia”, he should hand it back to the people and let them choose who they want to lead them. 

Look for the only white coat...there's Ani!

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Hajort Gayarane, WASHINGTON DC!


Privyet from Moscow - Whoa, time has flown. I’ve been here for 3.5 months, and it feels like I arrived 2 weeks ago – even though so much has happened. I’ve moved into an apartment [with Malte, volunteer from Bremen, Germany] very close to the city center, which has been a huge blessing (…Although the police have a pleasant habit of yelling into their megaphones at all hours of the day and night. What they yell is absolutely incomprehensible, although I’ve heard that they just yell to their other police car buddies. A great use of time and energy, I would say.)

Demirchyan poghots on a snowy morning.

I can’t believe I’m sitting in Moscow right now. It is damn expensive – I paid $14 for a fruit cup, a bottle of fizzy water, and a muffin. About a month ago, I was super excited to be going home. Nonetheless, I am still über excited; however, I know returning to Hayastan will be just as fun! My first impressions of the Armenian people weren’t exactly stellar, but things have really changed over the last few weeks. I’ve made friends with the nice lady in the bakery down the street, and I’ve exchanged glares with the security guards by the Greek consulate. Even some of the sellers at Venissage have taken me under their wing, welcoming my weekly visits and recalling some of the minutest details from our past conversations. I love being in Armenia – not only for Mount Ararat and the rest of my historical homeland, but also for the people in Birthright Armenia, local Yerevancis, and beloved marshrutka drivers.

Working with my B1 German students on their CVs

I was on Armenian TV a few days ago, where I was asked the question – “what is your general impression of Yerevan?” I responded quickly, telling the journalist that there was not one specific reason that I love Armenia, it is simply home. I was of course proud to flex my Western Armenian language skills, but more important, the message I communicated. Because the answer had been so spontaneous, I thought more about the conversation later, coming to the realization that I love my homeland and my inner nationalistic pride is starting to show itself ;-)


My last few weeks have been spent wrapping up a German unit, decorating the Birthright Armenia Christmas tree, and working on BR’s eco-friendly recycled Christmas tree. Our recycled Christmas tree is made of cut up water bottles. It may sound simple, but it was quite the opposite. I spent 2 consecutive days cutting water bottles into spirals, which I would then weave into giant balls. My thumb is still sore 3 days later from the scissors, which have practically created a new knob in my thumb. Ach, übrigens – es gibt nen Weihnachtsmarkt in Eriwan! Er ist eigentlich der erste Weihnachtsmarkt Armeniens, aber ist ja schon cool. Nur 16 Buden, aber das Gefühl ist trotzdem nett. 

This picture doesn't capture how numb my thumb is.

I'll miss you all in Yerevan for the 2 weeks I'm gone. Hopefully I'll eat my body weight in Thai food, spend time with family and friends, and update my winter clothing collection. I miss real napkins, hot showers, my parrot, civilized behavior in supermarkets, and Asian food. Stay classy, EPEBAH!

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Please & Շնորհակալություն


             Giving Thanks – After almost three months of living in Armenia, I have a lot to be thankful for. First, I want to thank my parents, Ara & Shoghig, for all the support they’ve provided me. Thank you Loreeg, for continuing to be the best sister ever – though I presume you should be thanking me for leaving clothes behind in my closet which I’m sure are now on your floor. And Aram, for sending me ridiculous memes (I hope we’ll end up at UVA next year!) Also, I miss my parrot more than anything in the world. 

                This year we celebrated Thanksgiving at one of our fellow volunteer’s apartments. She was generous enough to host a majority of the American-Armenian BR community and pretty much threw the best home-away-from-home Thanksgiving party. I brought my friend Simon (Syria) along to experience his first Thanksgiving. I enjoyed all the skeptical looks he gave to new and strange foods. 
Thanksgiving 2012
The last two weeks have been very challenging for me emotionally.  I knew it was coming, but I didn’t think it would be this hard. Seto, the closest friend I made through Birthright Armenia finished his service and flew back to Syria. We became friends on day one, when he walked into the office and said “parev, yes gamavor em” assuming I was a staff member of BR. To his surprise, I answered “yes al gamavor em”.  The first evening after the orientation, we took the bus back together, realizing that we live pretty close to each other. Just a 15 minute walk over the Kievyan Gamoo—Most. ..

Seto was my Armenian language teacher (Western) and fellow comedian. We wrote two songs together, including the infamous Marshrutka song and Yerevani Rabizneri. He skyped with my grandparents, discovered that my mother’s mother was indeed born in Kesab, Syria. We were pretty much inseparable for the two and a half months he was here. Five of us accompanied him to the airport, and I had been dreading the last goodbye (not forever, but for a while).  Seto, I don’t think anyone can forget all the craziness we experienced including – singing in the marshrutka, speaking hayastanci without laughing, singing the marshrutka song in Calumet, the trips to Artsakh and Gyumri, and of course the goodbye party. Simon is also leaving Armenia in less than a week; Yerevan won’t be the same without my Syrian buddies!

Damascus can't compare to this!
On a more positive note, I am moving into an apartment! Bye bye Halabyan, hello Demirchyan! I hear that most of the long term volunteers end up in an apartment at some point or another. It is located very close to Gentron, which will cut travel time in half. I will be sharing a flat with a volunteer from Germany. Malte looks like your typical German – blond with blue eyes.  I introduced him to his first lahmajoon at Mer Taghe. The waiter who was serving us was of course confused by the German spoken between us, and then the Armenian I spoke with him. He asked “Is he your brother? You look similar.” After I said no (obviously, I have dark hair and dark skin), he said “Oh, you’re married.” Again, no. Malte didn’t understand this short conversation and after I explained it we laughed for several minutes. The three languages I speak have been put into a blender that doesn’t stop…Today I woke up thinking in German, I greeted the lady at the supermarket in Armenian blended with English (it was 7:30 AM), and worked with the kiddies at school in soviet English. 

Of my three volunteer placements, I enjoy working with my German students the most. They are very bright and help me with Armenian, although I refuse to learn Eastern ;-). Our latest project was to create a menu for a restaurant, using their Partizip II skills to describe the different kinds of food they are advertising. 

I bought a furry Russian hat over the weekend. The lady selling it didn’t have many teeth but was really funny and gave me a Soviet era pin to put on the hat. I also visited the crazy shooga by the stadium. There was so much Engrish (foreigner English) to be found, but I got yelled at for taking a picture…again. 

Current/Future projects: children’s acrobatic show with Evelina, Komitas piano & voice duet with Julieta, decorating the new apartment, and more trolling around Yerevan.

Friday, November 16, 2012

Rabiz, Aziz Jan!

The cultural phenomena in Armenia, which is known as Rabiz, has been very influential in my stylistic and materialistic growth. Okay so maybe it hasn't, but it is very easy to distinguish this special kind of Armenian from others. The word Rabiz itself originated from two Russian words meaning "without class". Self-explanatory, I would assume. My observations are in no way generalizing Armenians as a whole, because every country has its 'special' kind of people. Hayastancis, don't take offense - I know you have your own stereotypes about Diasporan Armenians, which are probably true.

The song that Seto & I have written touches on some of the crucial aspects of Rabizology. However, for those who do not yet understand the Hayastanci culture, I'll outline some basic principles in English.

Rabiz male
1. Black clothing from top to bottom
2. Matching sweatsuit with pointy leather shoes
3. Obvious fake designer clothing with matching colored pants
4. Wears sunglasses regardless of weather or time of day
5. Squats, spits seeds, and smokes cigarettes ---> see photo
6. Speaks an unintelligible form of Armenian

The squat, which is surprisingly comfortable


Rabiz females are harder to describe because they aren't as prevalent, but our song touches on the highlights (no, not in the bleached out hair).


Երեւանի Ռապիզերի

To the tune of "Yerevani Axchiknerin" by Tata Simonyan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WD5Cvx_UFlA 

Seto Hovsepian & Ani Tramblian

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)
Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so classy, Yerevan rabizians)

Տղաքը կը հագնինշ գույնզգույն տաբատներ, (The men wear colorful pants)
Կարմիր կապույտ եւ դեղին, սուր եւ փայլուն կօշիկներ (Red, blue, and yellow, pointy and shiny shoes)
Թեւ-թեւի անոնք կ՛անձնին, աղջիկները կը դիտեն. ( Arm and arm, they go by, watching the girls)
Գետինը կը պպզին, սիկարեդներ կը ծխեն (Squatting on the ground, smoking cigarettes)
Գետինը կը պպզին, սիկարեդներ կը ծխեն (Squatting on the ground, smoking cigarettes)

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)
Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so class, Yerevan rabizians)

Աղջիկները կը հագնին, բարձրկռունկ կօշիկներ (The girls always wear high-heeled shoes)
Հարսի հագուստներով, կ՛երդան համալսարաններ (They dress like brides to go to university)
Հինկին առտու կ՛արդննան, հայելիին դեմ կը նստին (They wake up and 5am and sit in front of the mirror)
Երեսները կը ներկեն, ինչ է որ ռապիզ ելեն (To paint their faces so it comes out Rabiz)
Երեսները կը ներկեն, ինչ է որ ռապիզ ելեն (To paint their faces to it comes out Rabiz)

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)
Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so classy, Yerevan Rabizians)

Ռապիզ բարը լըսեցի, երբ ես Երեւան եկա (I heard Rabiz slang, when I came to Yerevan)
Ռապիզ երգը լըսեցի, երբ մարշրուտկաներ ելա (I heard Rabiz songs, when I rode the marshrutka)
Ինծմէ մի նեղուիք երբեք ես ալ հայ եմ ձեզի պես (Don't get mad at me, I'm Armenian just like you)
Ռապիզ եւ վոչ ռապիզ, բոլորս ալ հայեր էնք (Rabiz and non-Rabiz, we are all Armenian)
Ռապիզ եւ վոչ ռապիզ, բոլորս ալ հայեր էնք! (Rabiz and non-Rabiz, we are all Armenian)

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)
Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so classy, Yerevan Rabizians)