Hajort Gayarane, WASHINGTON DC!

Privyet from Moscow - Whoa, time has flown. I’ve been here for 3.5 months, and it feels like I arrived 2 weeks ago – even though so much has happened. I’ve moved into an apartment [with Malte, volunteer from Bremen, Germany] very close to the city center, which has been a huge blessing (…Although the police have a pleasant habit of yelling into their megaphones at all hours of the day and night. What they yell is absolutely incomprehensible, although I’ve heard that they just yell to their other police car buddies. A great use of time and energy, I would say.)

Demirchyan poghots on a snowy morning.

I can’t believe I’m sitting in Moscow right now. It is damn expensive – I paid $14 for a fruit cup, a bottle of fizzy water, and a muffin. About a month ago, I was super excited to be going home. Nonetheless, I am still über excited; however, I know returning to Hayastan will be just as fun! My first impressions of the Armenian people weren’t exactly stellar, but things have really changed over the last few weeks. I’ve made friends with the nice lady in the bakery down the street, and I’ve exchanged glares with the security guards by the Greek consulate. Even some of the sellers at Venissage have taken me under their wing, welcoming my weekly visits and recalling some of the minutest details from our past conversations. I love being in Armenia – not only for Mount Ararat and the rest of my historical homeland, but also for the people in Birthright Armenia, local Yerevancis, and beloved marshrutka drivers.

Working with my B1 German students on their CVs

I was on Armenian TV a few days ago, where I was asked the question – “what is your general impression of Yerevan?” I responded quickly, telling the journalist that there was not one specific reason that I love Armenia, it is simply home. I was of course proud to flex my Western Armenian language skills, but more important, the message I communicated. Because the answer had been so spontaneous, I thought more about the conversation later, coming to the realization that I love my homeland and my inner nationalistic pride is starting to show itself ;-)

 Watch from minute 34 to witness some Depi Hayk glory!

My last few weeks have been spent wrapping up a German unit, decorating the Birthright Armenia Christmas tree, and working on BR’s eco-friendly recycled Christmas tree. Our recycled Christmas tree is made of cut up water bottles. It may sound simple, but it was quite the opposite. I spent 2 consecutive days cutting water bottles into spirals, which I would then weave into giant balls. My thumb is still sore 3 days later from the scissors, which have practically created a new knob in my thumb. Ach, übrigens – es gibt nen Weihnachtsmarkt in Eriwan! Er ist eigentlich der erste Weihnachtsmarkt Armeniens, aber ist ja schon cool. Nur 16 Buden, aber das Gefühl ist trotzdem nett. 

This picture doesn't capture how numb my thumb is.

I'll miss you all in Yerevan for the 2 weeks I'm gone. Hopefully I'll eat my body weight in Thai food, spend time with family and friends, and update my winter clothing collection. I miss real napkins, hot showers, my parrot, civilized behavior in supermarkets, and Asian food. Stay classy, EPEBAH!

Please & Շնորհակալություն

             Giving Thanks – After almost three months of living in Armenia, I have a lot to be thankful for. First, I want to thank my parents, Ara & Shoghig, for all the support they’ve provided me. Thank you Loreeg, for continuing to be the best sister ever – though I presume you should be thanking me for leaving clothes behind in my closet which I’m sure are now on your floor. And Aram, for sending me ridiculous memes (I hope we’ll end up at UVA next year!) Also, I miss my parrot more than anything in the world. 

                This year we celebrated Thanksgiving at one of our fellow volunteer’s apartments. She was generous enough to host a majority of the American-Armenian BR community and pretty much threw the best home-away-from-home Thanksgiving party. I brought my friend Simon (Syria) along to experience his first Thanksgiving. I enjoyed all the skeptical looks he gave to new and strange foods. 

Thanksgiving 2012

The last two weeks have been very challenging for me emotionally.  I knew it was coming, but I didn’t think it would be this hard. Seto, the closest friend I made through Birthright Armenia finished his service and flew back to Syria. We became friends on day one, when he walked into the office and said “parev, yes gamavor em” assuming I was a staff member of BR. To his surprise, I answered “yes al gamavor em”.  The first evening after the orientation, we took the bus back together, realizing that we live pretty close to each other. Just a 15 minute walk over the Kievyan Gamoo—Most. ..

Seto was my Armenian language teacher (Western) and fellow comedian. We wrote two songs together, including the infamous Marshrutka song and Yerevani Rabizneri. He skyped with my grandparents, discovered that my mother’s mother was indeed born in Kesab, Syria. We were pretty much inseparable for the two and a half months he was here. Five of us accompanied him to the airport, and I had been dreading the last goodbye (not forever, but for a while).  Seto, I don’t think anyone can forget all the craziness we experienced including – singing in the marshrutka, speaking hayastanci without laughing, singing the marshrutka song in Calumet, the trips to Artsakh and Gyumri, and of course the goodbye party. Simon is also leaving Armenia in less than a week; Yerevan won’t be the same without my Syrian buddies!

Damascus can't compare to this!

On a more positive note, I am moving into an apartment! Bye bye Halabyan, hello Demirchyan! I hear that most of the long term volunteers end up in an apartment at some point or another. It is located very close to Gentron, which will cut travel time in half. I will be sharing a flat with a volunteer from Germany. Malte looks like your typical German – blond with blue eyes.  I introduced him to his first lahmajoon at Mer Taghe. The waiter who was serving us was of course confused by the German spoken between us, and then the Armenian I spoke with him. He asked “Is he your brother? You look similar.” After I said no (obviously, I have dark hair and dark skin), he said “Oh, you’re married.” Again, no. Malte didn’t understand this short conversation and after I explained it we laughed for several minutes. The three languages I speak have been put into a blender that doesn’t stop…Today I woke up thinking in German, I greeted the lady at the supermarket in Armenian blended with English (it was 7:30 AM), and worked with the kiddies at school in soviet English. 

Of my three volunteer placements, I enjoy working with my German students the most. They are very bright and help me with Armenian, although I refuse to learn Eastern ;-). Our latest project was to create a menu for a restaurant, using their Partizip II skills to describe the different kinds of food they are advertising. 

I bought a furry Russian hat over the weekend. The lady selling it didn’t have many teeth but was really funny and gave me a Soviet era pin to put on the hat. I also visited the crazy shooga by the stadium. There was so much Engrish (foreigner English) to be found, but I got yelled at for taking a picture…again. 

Current/Future projects: children’s acrobatic show with Evelina, Komitas piano & voice duet with Julieta, decorating the new apartment, and more trolling around Yerevan.

Rabiz, Aziz Jan!

The cultural phenomena in Armenia, which is known as Rabiz, has been very influential in my stylistic and materialistic growth. Okay so maybe it hasn't, but it is very easy to distinguish this special kind of Armenian from others. The word Rabiz itself originated from two Russian words meaning "without class". Self-explanatory, I would assume. My observations are in no way generalizing Armenians as a whole, because every country has its 'special' kind of people. Hayastancis, don't take offense - I know you have your own stereotypes about Diasporan Armenians, which are probably true.

The song that Seto & I have written touches on some of the crucial aspects of Rabizology. However, for those who do not yet understand the Hayastanci culture, I'll outline some basic principles in English.

Rabiz male
1. Black clothing from top to bottom
2. Matching sweatsuit with pointy leather shoes
3. Obvious fake designer clothing with matching colored pants
4. Wears sunglasses regardless of weather or time of day
5. Squats, spits seeds, and smokes cigarettes ---> see photo
6. Speaks an unintelligible form of Armenian

The squat, which is surprisingly comfortable

Rabiz females are harder to describe because they aren't as prevalent, but our song touches on the highlights (no, not in the bleached out hair).

Երեւանի Ռապիզերի

To the tune of "Yerevani Axchiknerin" by Tata Simonyan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WD5Cvx_UFlA 

Seto Hovsepian & Ani Tramblian

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)

Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so classy, Yerevan rabizians)

Տղաքը կը հագնինշ գույնզգույն տաբատներ, (The men wear colorful pants)

Կարմիր կապույտ եւ դեղին, սուր եւ փայլուն կօշիկներ (Red, blue, and yellow, pointy and shiny shoes)

Թեւ-թեւի անոնք կ՛անձնին, աղջիկները կը դիտեն. ( Arm and arm, they go by, watching the girls)

Գետինը կը պպզին, սիկարեդներ կը ծխեն (Squatting on the ground, smoking cigarettes)

Գետինը կը պպզին, սիկարեդներ կը ծխեն (Squatting on the ground, smoking cigarettes)

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)

Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so class, Yerevan rabizians)

Աղջիկները կը հագնին, բարձրկռունկ կօշիկներ (The girls always wear high-heeled shoes)

Հարսի հագուստներով, կ՛երդան համալսարաններ (They dress like brides to go to university)

Հինկին առտու կ՛արդննան, հայելիին դեմ կը նստին (They wake up and 5am and sit in front of the mirror)

Երեսները կը ներկեն, ինչ է որ ռապիզ ելեն (To paint their faces so it comes out Rabiz)

Երեսները կը ներկեն, ինչ է որ ռապիզ ելեն (To paint their faces to it comes out Rabiz)

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)

Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so classy, Yerevan Rabizians)

Ռապիզ բարը լըսեցի, երբ ես Երեւան եկա (I heard Rabiz slang, when I came to Yerevan)

Ռապիզ երգը լըսեցի, երբ մարշրուտկաներ ելա (I heard Rabiz songs, when I rode the marshrutka)

Ինծմէ մի նեղուիք երբեք ես ալ հայ եմ ձեզի պես (Don't get mad at me, I'm Armenian just like you)

Ռապիզ եւ վոչ ռապիզ, բոլորս ալ հայեր էնք (Rabiz and non-Rabiz, we are all Armenian)

Ռապիզ եւ վոչ ռապիզ, բոլորս ալ հայեր էնք! (Rabiz and non-Rabiz, we are all Armenian)

Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի, Երեւանի Ռապիզնէրի (Yerevan Rabizians, Yerevan Rabizians)

Շատ գեղեձիկ կը հագնին, Երեւանի Ռապիզները (They dress so classy, Yerevan Rabizians)

So much bread!

This week wasn’t overly exciting. I woke up on Wednesday morning to see that America re-elected the great promise-breaker. We all saw it coming but I am truly saddened that we will have to deal with Obama’s incompetence again. As a self-driven conservative, liberalism goes against every grain in my body. In other news, I am volunteering at Repat Armenia as an English language editor and semi-journalist. 

Haters gonna hate.

It is about time I wrote a post about food. I wrote a similar style blog while I was abroad in Dortmund, Germany in which I explained my dietary choices and mishaps. This experience is entirely different, perhaps because I already know what adjusting to another country’s dietary customs is like. I can sum up the diet in a few words - BREAD & BREAD; but I'll explain something other than BREAD if you continue to read.

Nakhajash, or breakfast, is something pretty basic for me. I am a huge advocate of yogurt, which I eat every day. At first, I would only buy the German products because I trust their quality more than Russian things. I like to eat fruit at breakfast which varies depending on what my host family brought back from the village in Vanadzor. There are usually apples and peaches around, and last week my host brother brought back clementines from Georgia. Coffee is quite different here. I love Armenian coffee, which is served in small coffee cups. It tastes great but the serving size is quite small so it doesn’t completely satisfy my desire for a warm beverage in the morning. Therefore, I must resort to instant coffee, which seems to be the norm around here anyways. I haven’t even seen a drip coffee machine around so I don’t think it’s a thing in Armenia. Instant coffee is nasty compared to fresh brewed American or German style coffee, but I don’t really have a choice.

Snack time! Bonchik is Armenia’s donut. At Grand Candy, Armenia’s widely known candy company, one ‘bonchik’ costs 80 dram (about 20 cents). A bonchik is a fried dough blob that is filled with a kind of cream. It sounds like a donut, but is better because it is always served fresh – piping hot fried goodness. Unfortunately napkins in Armenia are even worse than in Germany. Bonchiks are served with a wax paper napkin. As if a slip of wax paper is going to get the grease and powdered sugar off of my mouth and fingers…!

Ponchik-monchik!

Lunch time is usually around 1pm or later because work generally starts at 10am (as opposed to 9am like in the US/Germany). My work schedule varies from day to day so lunch is always a surprise for me as well. Some days I will go to the supermarket during my break to get some sarma and tabouleh. The sarma at the local ‘STAR’ supermarket is pretty good. Tabouleh is way better at Nana’s house. I really miss the Lebanese/Armenian food we eat at home like zatar, hummus, feti, labneh, and tabouleh. If I’m wanting to eat something more starchy I’ll get a Khachapuri. Khachapuri is a triangle shaped bread thingy filled with cheese. Sometimes the dough is flaky, sometimes it is soft. The kids at school go bonkers for this stuff.

Armenians pride themselves on two things (not including khorovats): lavash bread and dolma. Lavash bread is a traditional flatbread that can be eaten with every meal. You can of course find loaves of bread everywhere, but they sell rolls of lavash as well. I can eat everything with lavash but my favorite is trusty Nutella. Be careful though, because lavash dries out quickly and becomes unappetizing. Everyone’s mother can make dolma better than the next person’s. Dolma is a traditional dish that consists of a hollowed out vegetable (squash, bell pepper, cabbage) that is filled with rice, meat, and spices. I don’t like to eat much meat in general so I’ll pass on the khorovats.

One of my favorite oddities spotted so far is the connection between Costco’s Kirkland brand and the SAS supermarket chain in Armenia. Kirkland is Costco’s own brand so its products are high quality at a low cost. My family loves the Costco wholesale stores in the states so  the first time I saw the Kirkland sign in Armenia I had a huge smile on my face. No, they don’t give free samples here (sorry Hirig). I tried to take a picture of the glorious KIRKLAND sign in the SAS supermarket but I got yelled at by an employee who told me I wasn’t allowed to take pictures inside. Stupid soviet mentality is still highly visible in certain aspects. 

Dolma - stuffed peppers, grape leaves, etc.

Fruits and vegetables here are fantastic. They don’t use pesticides and pomegranates really do grow everywhere. There is pretty much the same variety as in the US, but strawberries are really expensive and I haven’t seen a pineapple in a while. Armenians like their persimmons, apricots, plums, and figs (which are even better dried)!  And fruits are sold everywhere. On the side of the road, in 'fresh fruit' markets, and in...soviet cars!

Pomegranate Lada - thanks, https://www.facebook.com/TarverdiPhotography

As winter rolls around, the prices for fruits and veggies will skyrocket so the alternative is homemade fruit and veggie preserves. If you have any questions, please feel free to comment! I have a feeling I will become good friends with potatoes by the end of this year…

Visited Sanahin and Haghpat over the weekend in the Lori province. Far drive, not so exciting.